Christmas Comes to Cova

With the Silly Season well and truly upon us, there are so many options for a festive feast that it can sometimes leave us spoilt for choice. When it comes to Christmas fare, we want all the classics – like turkey and cranberry sauce – but with a contemporary twist to keep us interested. A tall order indeed. Enter Cova Hong Kong: the Milanese patisserie and restaurant steeped in Italian cuisine and culture, established here since 1998.

I was well aware of Cova's renowned reputation for producing classic Italian delicacies, so I was intrigued to discover the tantalising treats on offer this December. 

First off: Cova in Lee Garden One, Causeway Bay, sets the seasonal scene like no other venue. Don't be deceived by the outward appearance of the coffee shop and patisserie; there's so much more to this place than sinfully delicious cakes and coffee. Behind lies a treasure trove of luxurious dining rooms and private party spaces. My personal favourite room reminded me of a homely sitting area, complete with a decorated Christmas tree and huge fireplace that I was assured can be lit to create a cosy, intimate atmosphere for the ultimate merry dinner party. Cova manages to offer the diner fine foods coupled with home comforts with grace and ease. 

The Christmas selection is a conceptual mix of antipasti, homemade pasta and turkey with a twist, culminating in the age-old Italian masterpiece of panettone with homemade gelato. I mean, you really are a Grinch if you're not feeling the Santa Claus vibes after this. There are a number of set menus available at the various Cova locations, and I was lucky enough to sample the very best of their eclectic 2016 assortment. 

To begin, Cova offers a creamy panna cotta with subtle flavours of burrata and a tangy mayo, topped with chunky helpings of lobster. Next, you can tuck into handmade ravioli filled with oxtail, chocolate powder and seasonal truffle – hey, if you can't be decadent at Christmas, when can you? 

Following this was the star of the show: turkey roulade stuffed with pork sausage on a bed of lentils, creamed chestnut and a balsamic plum sauce. The turkey was tender and juicy, the pork bursting with intense flavour. It tasted like something straight out of Mama's kitchen (if your mama is a Michelin-starred chef, that is!). 

The last course was a playful concoction of the Italian classic dessert panettone, packed with layers of sweet gelato, topped with red fruits and dripping in a light custard. My local source (the fabulous F&B director, Daniele) informed me that most Italian families can get through two loaves of panettone a day over the Christmas period, and it can be enjoyed with everything from coffee to wine – now, that's my kind of pudding! 

Cova offers an ample choice of set lunch and dinner menus that, depending on your preferred location, start at $388 per person. If you don't get a chance to check out Cova's Christmas extravaganza, you can order one of their custom hampers or incredible cakes to add some seasonal sparkle to your kitchen this year. Oh, and as 31 December rapidly approaches, gather some friends and family and pop along to their amazing – and relatively affordable – New Year's Eve bash for an eight-course menu, two glasses of Moet & Chandon and live entertainment – all for $1,188 per person. Now that's amore! 

Shop 101–103, 1/F, Lee Garden One, Lee Gardens, 33 Hysan Ave, Causeway Bay, 2907 3399 

Marques De Casa Concha: Anniversary of a Chilean Classic

After recently celebrating a milestone birthday, I promised myself that this would be my year of wine education and promptly took myself off to Napa Valley to get schooled up – any excuse! So, when the invitation to the 40th anniversary celebrations of Chile's Marques de Casa Concha popped up, I was intrigued to find out more about their famed Cabernet Sauvignon and the rest of the vintage vino selection.

The big bash was hosted at the Grand Hyatt in Wanchai, where Salon III was transformed into a dimly lit gothic grotto, filled with perfectly placed gold-accented decorations and captivating artwork. Stepping into the venue felt truly exclusive, and the room was filled with wine enthusiasts who were thirsty to taste the varieties on offer and hungry for the food-pairing selections, prepared by three-Michelin-starred chef Bruno Menard of Singapore. The animated atmosphere was accentuated by the live band who piped jazz music and soft acoustics around the space all evening. 

Guests were treated to introductory speeches from award-winning winemaker Marcelo Papa and Chef Menard, who both set the scene for the sensory sensations that were to come. Marcelo took us through the dynamic, energetic and evolutionary history of Marques de Casa Concha, as well as some fascinating features of the winemaking process in the extreme valleys of the Limarí and Bío-Bío provinces of Chile. Chef Menard spoke about the importance of specialist food and wine combinations and gave an insight into the innovative creations that would complement the wines. 

We kicked off with one of my personal favourites: shrimp ceviche topped with orange and passion fruit coulis, served with a glass of crisp 2014 Chardonnay. This duo was an impeccable blend of tart, fresh and light flavours, with just the right amount of acidity and sweetness.

Following this was a slice of seared salmon on a bed of beetroot tartare to go with the 2013 Pinot Noir. The Pinot was my winner out of the reds – full of zingy notes of cranberry and raspberry with a classic yet contemporary consistency. This salmon snack was mouth-watering and had me going back for seconds.

For something extraordinary and exceptional, Chef Menard created a conceptual mix of foie gras and nougat, seasoned with Peruvian chocolate and fig chutney. I must admit that I was slightly sceptical at this choice to accompany the 2014 Carmenère, but one bite of this culinary artistry instantly changed my mind. Sipping on the Carmenère whilst eating this was a special experience and brought out the intense and complex flavours of the foie gras and nougat sliver. 

Moving on to the renowned 2014 Cabernet Sauvingon, bowls of luscious red wine and beetroot risotto were served, finished with a sprig of peppery rocket. This dish was just the right proportion, and a few mouthfuls were plenty to work around the fragrant, spicy aromas of the Cab Sav. 

Sadly, it was almost time to finish the tasting extravaganza, but the best was certainly saved for last as we savoured the 2013 Merlot with a slice of tender, orange-glazed duck breast dripping in a miso and fruit-based sauce. The duck melted in the mouth, and the interesting aftertaste from the fruit and miso left the palate prepared for the rich composition of the Merlot. 

Members of the Concha y Toro team were present during the celebrations, and both Chef Menard and Marcelo happily mixed and chatted with guests. I was told that they are extremely busy in the Asian markets, with Japan being the biggest source of their exports. Needless to say, they were more than impressed by both the Hong Kong wine scene and the unique blend of East meets West that the city has to offer.

Luckily, Marques de Casa Concha wines are available for purchase in HK and Summergate Fine Wines and Spirits (www.summergate.com) are the exclusive importer for Concha y Toro. I thoroughly enjoyed the wines and was inspired by the story of their timeless heritage. I may have already signed up for a couple of cases to welcome the Silly Season in style!

All images courtesy of Golin and Taking Hong Kong 

Fish School – Sai Ying Pun’s Specialty Seafood Spot

Tucked away on Third Street, Fish School is one of the latest eateries à la mode to hit Sai Ying Pun. French-trained chef, David Lai, spearheads this eclectic fish specialty joint, with an emphasis on local catch and culture and a focus on fresh, seasonal and organic ingredients. As the brainchild of Yenn Wong (the restauranteur behind gems like 22 Ships, Chachawan and Aberdeen Street Social), my expectations were set suitable high for this dining experience.

Finding Fish School was a challenge, but as soon as I stumbled upon the right spot, I was instantly enthralled by the urban feel of the location. It struck me almost as a Mediterranean tavern - with exposed brick walls and fairy lights adorning the outside of the restaurant. Inside, the cozy ambiance didn’t disappoint with fun touches like fish tanks and open kitchen tables to entertain diners. Luckily, we had prime seats, and were able to observe our food being skillfully prepared right in front of us. The lively and animated vibe of this place makes it ideal for a group setting and would be superb for Friday night frolics with friends.

The service at Fish School was noteworthy; the staff were very casual, jovial and chatty - without being overly intrusive on the table. Our server was most knowledgeable about the food and beverage menu and explained each one of our seven courses effortlessly, as they were received. I particularly appreciated the attention to detail exhibited; with small touches like a comprehensive overview of dietary requirements and a change of cutlery and plates, where appropriate.

Fish School’s vision is to pay homage to the abundance of sea food on offer in Hongky waters - wherever possible - and to add a touch of creative flair with exquisite preparation and presentation. This aim is achieved fluently with a gorgeous variety of tapas-style portions that are both appetizing and aesthetically pleasing (hello, they had me at flowers on the food!). Each serving was a feast for the belly and the eyes - with plenty of Instagram opportunities throughout the meal!

Some of my personal winners were the crispy, oyster croquettes with tangy and spicy yuzo mayo, the complimentarily cool Hamachi Crudo with cucumber and plum and the marinated raw crab and sea urchin rice. The fluffy, wild sea mullet was unforgettable; swimming in the most intriguing combination of ginger milk and preserved mustard root. Meat lovers are not neglected at Fish School either, and can chow down on the scintillating wagyu beef, or wagyu tartare, with fermented mushroom and mustard brulee. My only disappointment was the clam custard - which I didn’t quite get - I found the flavours bland and flat and while I welcome the inventiveness, the whole dish missed the mark for me. 

The drinks menu was also impressive, with a massive selection of everything from sake to beers and wines, all carefully crafted and selected to accompany the light, contemporary food. I really enjoyed flicking through the cocktail list which was as innovative as the food - forget your run-of-the-mill Cosmo here! At Fish School it’s all about something different, like the Wet Market Martini or the Third Street Spritz to whet your appetite or finish off your evening with a funky twist.

All-in-all, I had a wonderful experience and felt a million miles away enveloped in the bustling surroundings. If you’re in search of something other than the likely Central picks, get out your Google maps to sample the offbeat and original at Fish School.

Original article appeared on Sassy Hong Kong

http://www.sassyhongkong.com/eat-drink-fish-school-sai-ying-pun-seafood-restaurant/ 

All images courtesy of Fish School

Tantalising New Menu at 22 Ships

The Hong Kong dining scene is a rapid revolving door, with new joints opening and closing faster than you can say “cheque, please!”. While this provides plenty of opportunity to frequent a new restaurant every other week, it’s also comforting to know that some HK staples are alive, well and at their very best. Enter 22 Ships: the creation of Gordon Ramsay protégé Jason Atherton, that has been a Hongkers hit for over four years and still has people queuing on the daily to bag a seat at the hottest table in The Wanch. Top tip: those in the know - and who call this spot their regular - simply call it “Ships”, donchaknow!

We arrived to treat our taste buds to some of the new additions to the menu, and the 35-seat venue was packed and buzzing with the vivacious chit-chat of hungry diners. The atmosphere at Ships is electric, with the clanging of small plates of perfectly proportioned tapas and chilled glasses of crisp wine adding to the hectic soundtrack of the venue. If you’re in the mood for an aloof, reserved dinner date then Ships is not The One. However, if it’s energy and entertainment you’re after, thrown in with some seriously divine dishes, then step right up to a high stool at this animated - and at times boisterous - bistro!

The team at Ships prepare each dish freshly in the open kitchen; sprinkling ferocious passion on every aspect of their menu. Head Chef, Aaron Gillespie, was a breath of fresh air as he detailed each offering with optimum pride and enthusiasm. His infectious nature worked a treat and we were bursting with excitement to delve into some stellar staples and new choices.

We began with one of the evening’s specials - on Aaron’s recommendation - which was a glorious pairing of imported Italian burrata and shaved Australia truffle followed by the Jamon, Manchego and Truffle toastie with quail’s eggs – an extravagant, indulgent and flavourful twist on an old classic. Moving on to the guilt-free but gratifying Bluefin Tuna with Sago Crackers was the perfect transition and gluten free to boot – bonus!

For the side accompaniments, we decided on a helping of the cauliflower, mushroom and walnut pesto medley which, you have to taste to believe: I’m still wondering how this weird and wonderful concoction captured my heart so well! And just to be fair to the veggies, we also tried the peas, broad beans, goat’s cheese and red vein sorrel which I would highly recommend for its freshness and depth of flavor. Don’t say I’m not good to you guys!

Of course, no trip to Ships would be complete without sampling the suckling pig, drizzled in a reduction of pineapple and piquillo peppers. This trusty treat did not disappoint and is still as consistently good as it was when Ships first launched, years ago. Likewise, the seafood paella – served with fava beans and crispy bacon – is not to be missed, with its creamy consistency and smoky undertones.

By this point, we were feeling pretty full and happy but I’m so glad that we managed to fit in some of the playful desserts on the menu. Finishing off with the Green Tea Cheesecake provided the perfect mix of sharp and sweet; combining just the right amounts of cooling yoghurt and zesty lime. The Strawberry Chantilly was intricately plated and tantalisingly tangy.

I’m already looking forward to my next visit to Ships to unwind with the casual and social way of eating. It’s easy to hop on the latest bandwagon but, it’s worth bearing in mind that this place is an oldie, but a goodie.

Original article appeared on Sassy Hong Kong

http://www.sassyhongkong.com/eat-drink-22-ships-new-menu/

Images courtesy of 22 Ships and Taking Hong Kong

Maya Café – Mediterranean Mezze in Sheung Wan

With plenty of opportunity for overindulgence in HK, it was really refreshing to step into Maya Café for a fresh feast of raw, vegan and gluten free goodies. Having visited the Wan Chai restaurant before, I was super excited to try out the new seven course “Madame Butterfly” set menu at their Sheung Wan shop. I must admit that I was slightly apprehensive about dining solely on a slightly alternative menu and fully expected to need a cheeky burger pit-stop on the way home afterwards! Although some of the dishes left me slightly disappointed, I was pleasantly surprised by the level of creativity, flavor and nourishment of the Mediterranean mezze on offer.

Maya is beautifully and thoughtfully presented and radiates that crisp, cool Grecian vibe with modern, simplistic table settings and blue and white accents throughout the space. The restaurant, while small in size, still manages to create a chic ambiance for their customers to enjoy amidst the colourful chaos of Sheung Wan. The table service was fabulous and the Manager, Benny, was absolutely charming and extremely attentive which really added a personal touch to the dinging experience.

We kicked off our tasting with an entrée of assorted dips: guacamole, spicy cheze (a vegan variety of traditional chees) and “pinkito” – a special in-house secret recipe – and some flatbread to mop up the veggie goodness. This was a spectacular selection; the dips were the perfect consistency and full of sweet, sharp, contrasting flavours and the bread was wholesome and filling. Unfortunately, the next round of an organic Patagonian salad did nothing for me and I felt like I was just sifting through a board of tasteless leaves in the hopes of finding some of the other ingredients like fermented lentils and seaweed.

Maya pulled it out of the bag with their Vushi though (raw, veggie sushi donchaknow!) and I savoured every bite of the rolls full of spicy, south American-  inspired fillings. Next we were treated to grilled Portobello mushroom and organic tofu skewers which were really delicious, tangy and sticky - with just a hint of smoky barbeque undertones. To accompany this, we each had a bowl of baked potato fries with a trio of dips: traditional chimichurri, no egg wasabi mayo and homemade mustard. Again, the dips were sensational - the wasabi mayo was the real stand out for me – but sadly our fries were served cold which took away from the entire side dish.

We moved to the final course with a pallet cleanser of Maracuja “nice cream” with fresh fruit and cacao nibs and a Dulce de Leche berry cheeze cake. These were both pleasant, healthy dessert options and, while it would be unfair to expect them to taste like a full-fat slab of American-style cheesecake, they certainly hit the sweet spot.

I would definitely return to Maya for lunch, or take advantage of their takeaway and home delivery services. The food is certainly something special - and healthy - and I applaud them for taking a different slant on the HK dinging scene. However, I did feel like the café’s setting in a shopping mall lacked the right ambiance for dinner time and it was a little too commercial for me. Although were happy to enjoy a leisurely dinner (and sip on the guilt-free organic, vegan wine) the service from the kitchen was also extremely slow which might be an issue for some people.

Overall, I think Maya is a good option for homemade, meatless meals in a casual, laid back atmosphere.

Original post appeared on Sassy Hong Kong

http://www.sassyhongkong.com/eat-drink-maya-cafe-mediterranean-mezze-sheung-wan-hong-kong/

All images courtesy of Maya Cafe.